Help!!!

[booger7139]

:wavey: OK my yearling wont pick up his hind legs I really need help so please help! thanx

[eHoof]

Please explain. He drags his feet when he walks? Doesn't want you to lift his back feet? It would help to have some more details.

[booger7139]

he wont pick them up so I cant pick them and he has thrush so I need to clean them! thanx

[eHoof]

I would imagine that he shifts his weight to the foot you are trying to pick-up. Picking up a horses feet is all about trust! Assuming that the horse is not kicking at you -- cause thats a different problem -- work with your horses front feet first, stand beside your horse facing his rear, lean your shoulder into him and run your hand down the back side of his leg. You lean into him to get him to shift his weight to the other foot. Pinch the big tendon at the top of his fetlock joint. Pinch with an upward movement and push your elbow into the back of his knee. Once he lifts the foot cup the hoof in your hand -- never grab his leg -- don't lift to high, cannon parallel to the ground is high enough. Then talk to your horse to let him know you are setting the foot down. Start to set it down until he takes over then let him put it down. Never drop his foot! Try the same process on the back feet, but lift up and back and not to high. you may have to do it in stages. If you can help it never let the horse take his foot away from you, this teachs the horse bad habits. I hope this helps. P.S. Don't tie your yearling, have someone hold the lead for you. Tieing can cause neck problems in a young horse.

[booger7139]

hes tries to kick when i go ne where near his hoof i can pick his front feet but not his hind legs

[booger7139]

and we have to tie him up because no 1 can hold him hes to strong and he has thrush

[eHoof]

Yep, kicking is a different story! First, have you had a farrier out to take care of the thrush? Do you have some rubber mats down in the stall? Build up dirt under the center of the mats to allow the urine can run off the mat. After your farrier cleans it up then you can pack the hoof with cotton if needed and treat with thrush remedy or diluted Clorox. If your farrier is good then he should have no problem working with the back feet. I have a yearling filly that wanted no part of the farrier thing. She had a big fit til she reared up and fell on her side, I held the lead and kept her head from hitting the ground when I saw her going over. After that she calmed down a bit. NEVER tie a young horse! Kicking is disrespect and disrespect is cured with ground work.

[booger7139]

well no1 can hold him hes too strong and every1 said to tie him up and the farriers are coming whenever there free how much is it usually?

[eHoof]

Well if you have to tie him then the best way would be to wrap a innertube from a bicycle around a post a few times and then tie the lead to that. But I still would never tie a young horse no matter what! If he is to strong then until you are able to get the ground work done to develop the respect, then I would get a couple of strong guys to come over and help you. Sometimes -- like what happened to my filly -- when a horse rears up they want to walk backwards and this can cause them to fall on their side. Make sure you hold the lead and keep their head from hitting the ground. They do this out of fear most of the time and talking sweet to your horse will not solve this problem. Sensitizing and desensitizing is -- in my opinion -- the best method of solving fear problems. Respect without fear and without beating. If you are interested in learning more about this then I suggest having a look at Clinton Andersons web site www.clintonanderson.net purchase some of his tapes. I have used his methods and they work. As far a farriers go, the cost where I live is $25 a trim and $55 for shoeing. They may have additional charges for the thrush depending on how back it is. Some charge more for problem horses and some will not work with problem horses, so check with them first.

[eHoof]

I guess I should add; If you have someone help you that has worked with horses before then they should have no problem holding the horse. The trick is don't play tug-a-war with your horse. If you can see both eyes and the horse is square with you then you will lose the game everytime. Its all about balance, stay out front and to the side of your horse if he starts to pull on you move in a circle around his body holding pressure on the lead rope. Keep doing it until he gives up and starts to lick his lips, a sign that they are starting to understand. Remember to work with your horse on boths sides. You don't want to develop a one eyed horse. Don't use a short lead rope, my lead is 25 feet long. Don't wrap the lead around your hand. If he trys to run right by you then pull hard on the lead to turn his head toward you. That way you won't be looking at hind quarters as you're sliding along the ground. Try to do all this in a round pen, that way if hes gets away from you he will not go far. Keep moving, don't stand in one place, keep pressure on the lead and walk toward his hind quarters making sure not to get stepped on keep a distance of at least 3 ft but not much more than that. This has worked for me for a long time. I have been on my face in the dirt, had lead burn on my hands and stepped on many times, comes with the territory.

[booger7139]

well i dont have ne1 to really help? u have ne horses for sale? if so how much and would u be willing to trade?

[eHoof]

Not anymore. We have three horses left. Chloe is my 15.3 Overo Paint (Mr. Robin Boy & Mardelle Dixon bloodline) and she is my best friend. She starts barrel and pole training in Jan. Pocha is my yearling filly that is developing well for western Pleasure or maybe cows. My oldest son has plans for her, she is Ratchett bloodline. My yearling Medicine Hat Colt is Tardy2 and Dixon bloodline and I really wanted a Medicine Hat. They are harder to find with good markings so I won't be getting rid of him either. If I put Chloe on the market she might bring $10,000 to $12,500. She is well trained.

[booger7139]

i mean a cheap horse!!!

[eHoof]

Ain't no such thing as a cheap horse. I wish I had back all the money I have spent on horses over the last 5/6 years, I could retire on a beach somewhere. Food, vet, tack, training, lessons, horse club membership fees... The list goes on and on. My first horse cost me $1100, she was a good horse but not registered. Then I bought a yearling gelding for $450, that was a big mistake, got rid of him fast. I learned my lesson the hard way and I would never buy a non-registered horse again. Thats not to say there aren't bad registered horses, its just easier to see what the breeder you are dealing with has been doing with their horses and learn about their reputation. You get more for your money in my opinion.

[booger7139]

well i cant buy a reg. horse and not all reg. horses are good!

[eHoof]

Yes, I think I said not all registered horses are good. Its just another tool that you can use in making your decision about what horse to buy. If you are looking for a Western Pleasure horse then you can check the bloodlines to see if that is a dominate trait, if not then maybe you don't want to purchase that horse.

[booger7139]

I dont have ne money to buy a good horse!